How To

Make sure you have a clean rag to wipe the dipstick once you have pulled it out.

1. Check the engine oil level before starting or more than 5 minutes after stopping the engine.

2. Remove the oil level gauge, wipe it clean and reinstall it.

3. Take the oil level gauge out again, and check the oil level.

CAUTION
To avoid personal injury:

• Be sure to stop the engine before checking and changing the engine oil and the oil filter cartridge.
• Do not touch muffler or exhaust pipes while they are hot; Severe burns could result. Always stop the engine and allow it to cool before conducting inspections, maintenance, or for a cleaning procedure.
• Contact with engine oil can damage your skin. Put on gloves when using engine oil. If you come in contact with engine oil, wash it off immediately

• Allways wear correct P.P.E when operating the AIR-VAC
• The auxillary power connections are located next to the isolator key for the AIR-VAC  (Picture 1)
• Allways make sure the unit is switched off and isolated when coupling your tooling up 
• The AIR-VAC needs to be running to use the hydraulic outputs
• Turn it on via the green button on the control panel
• Power up the remote , press and hold down the power button for two seconds release and press again (Image 3)
• Put the left side switch into tipping/hydraulic output mode (Image 4)
• Next decide what flow rate you need 50l/m (A) or 25l/m (B)
• Toggle the flow rate switch to your desired choice (Image 5)
• You can now use your hydraulic tool 

Isolate the AIR-VAC

Lift the Dashboard inspection hatch 

Push the battery down from the top and pull it out

Turn the remote upside down and push the battery to the right to release

Switch the batteries 

Start up the unit

Ensure the remote isolator is not engaged and press and hold the power button in

• Ensure the isolator key is turned on
• Cycle through with the arrow on the left of the display screen on the control panel
• The display will show volts,revs and hours
• hours are displayed on the screen with a small clock after the figure

• Ensure the AIR-VAC is isolated prior to starting work
• Open the two quick Release clamps to the filtration access doors (image 1)
• Open Filter door . (image 2)
• Remove the six nuts and washers which secure the filter securing plate. Keep these in a safe place for re-use (IMAGE 2)
• Lift out the filter plate (IMAGE 3) shows it removed
• Carefully remove each filter element. (image 5 )
• Jet wash filters down with warm soapy water.  Do not place the nozzle to close to the filter element or damage could occur. (image 4 )
• Inspect for damage, holes & wear. Replace if damaged which would allow material to by-pass.
• For best results, allow the filters to dry naturally.
• Whist the filters are drying, use HP water to clean the filtration compartment – tip the AIR-VAC  to allow excess debris and water out. (image 89)
• check and clean the chamber between the filters and debris area it may be easier to access  via the top inspection hatch or  (image 9 )
• Relocate the filters back in size order. (image 6 shows order)
• Replace the filter securing plate and the six washers and nuts (image 2)
• Final check – visually inspect inside each filter ensuring no tools or bolts have been left. Loose debris, this side of the filters can cause fatal damage to turbines.
• Close the Filter lid door and secure. Repeat this process on the opposite filter chamber.

• make sure you have Isolated the Air-Vac 
• Undo the two latches on the filter lid and lift the filter lid up (PIC1)
• Connect filter blaster to a compressor using whip checks (PIC2) shows the whipcheck attached to the filter blaster and compressor hose prior to connecting the hose to the filterblaster.
• Start at the smallest filter (furthest from the debris door) give a minimum of 10 second pulsing blasts to each filter and work your way along (PIC3)
• Ensure you push the filter blaster down so the rubber debris cone makes a seal (PIC4)
• Shut the lid and fasten the two latches
• Repeat on the opposite side
• Tip the debris skip to empty the filter chamber

Recognition of radio identification code of the portable control unit (Rc400 G2B)

In the RC400 radio remote controls, the portable control unit works with the linked central unit in radio mode through a unique identification code.  When a portable control unit (or a central unit) is replaced, it’s required to update this code to ensure that the system works again.  The portable control unit connected with the serial cable works always (the identification code is ignored).

Recognition procedure:

1. Remove battery from the portable control unit.  Connect the serial cable between the portable control unit and the central unit.

2. Press the emergency stop button of the portable control unit and turn off the central unit (switch in “OFF” position). The lights of the central unit must be turned off.

3. Turn on the central unit (switch in “REMOTE” position) and unlock the portable control unit emergency stop button.

4. Hold the ON/SIGNAL button for about 10 seconds (the red light of the portable control unit turns on and short and repeated sound signals are emitted to ensure that programming is in progress, the internal display of the central unit shows “Po and Id”).

5. When the programming is finished, the portable control unit turns off and the central unit returns in stand-by mode.

6. Leaving the cable connected, power on again the portable control unit.  If everything has worked good, the display inside the receiver will show “1-“. 

Note: if a graphic display is installed on the portable control unit, after the second power on, it can take even one or two minutes to load the display configuration. Meanwhile, on the display, some messages will inform of the work in progress.  The display inside the receiver will show a rotating segment until the process has finished.

When the display configuration has been completely transferred the display inside the receiver will show “1-“ (or “1P”).

7. Disconnect the cable, insert the battery and test the radio.

8. If something goes wrong repeat the procedure from the beginning.

Applicable to AIR-VAC Serial No. 002 onwards

When the PCU inclination exceeds the safety limit, the PCU internal buzzer
is activated (Tilt sensor pre-alarm signal); if the PCU inclination is eceeds the
safety limit for more than 2 seconds, all functions are disabled by the external
MC2M controller.

Reset the remote. 

Has the battery lost charge?

Replace the battery with the charged one.

Tow ball and connections

Check that:

• the trailer is correctly coupled to the towball or pin - follow the manufacturer’s advice
• the coupling height is correct
• the 7 or 13 core cable and plug isn’t damaged

Breakaway cable

Use a breakaway cable or secondary coupling. This engages the trailer’s brakes (if fitted) or stops the trailer if it becomes detached from the car.

Check that:

• the cable isn’t worn or damaged
• there’s enough slack in the cable so that it doesn’t accidentally apply the brakes
• the cable won’t drag on the ground when you’re driving
• Follow the manufacturer’s advice to make sure it’s connected correctly.

Wheels and tyres

Check that the tyres on both the car and trailer:

• don’t have any cuts or bulges
• are inflated to the manufacturer’s specification for the load being carried

Check that each tyre has a tread depth of at least 1.6mm:

• across the central three-quarters of the breadth of the tread
• around the entire circumference of the tyre

Check that the wheel nuts and bolts are tightened to the correct torque.

Check that mudguards are fitted to the trailer and they’re secure.

Lights and indicators

Check that there’s no damage to the lights, and that they’re all working correctly.

Is the 7 core cable and plug undamaged?

Even seemingly "minor" damage to a ratchet strap can significantly reduce its capacity to hold objects and increases the chance that the ratchet strap will fail during use. Therefore, it is very important that ratchet straps are regularly and properly inspected. In reality, there simply is no such thing as "minor" damage. If you are not sure whether a ratchet strap is damaged, DO NOT USE IT.

If ratchet strap identification tag is missing or not readable.

Holes, tears, cuts, snags or embedded materials.

Broken or worn stitches in the load bearing splices.

Knots in any part of the webbing.

Acid or alkali burns.

Melting, charring or weld spatters on any part of the webbing.

Excessive abrasive wear or crushed webbing.

Signs of ultraviolet (UV) light degradation.

Distortion, excessive pitting, corrosion or other damage to buckles or end fitting(s).

Any conditions which cause doubt as to the strength of the ratchet strap.

Synthetic web ratchet straps may be re-webbed using existing hardware if the ratchet strap manufacturer determines the hardware is reusable. All re-webbed ratchet straps utilizing used hardware shall be proof tested to 150% of the WLL and certified. Frankly you are better off just replacing the entire unit.

You should never ignore ratchet strap damage or attempt to perform temporary field repairs of damaged ratchet straps (e.g., tie knots in the webbing, etc.)

For further guidence: 

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/load-securing-vehicle-operator-guidance/load-securing-vehicle-operator-guidance

Load and weight limit

Check that:

• the trailer isn’t overloaded
• the load is distributed evenly
• the load is secure

Find your car’s weight limit

The vehicle manufacturer’s plate gives information about weight limits for your car. Check the car’s handbook if a plate isn’t fitted.

Weight             Description

Weight 1          Maximum weight of the car on its own

Weight 2          Maximum weight of the car and trailer combined

Weight 3          Maximum weight for the front axle of the car

Weight 4          Maximum weight for the rear axle of the car

The maximum weight includes passengers, other loads, and fuel.

Trailer with no braking system

The loaded trailer:

• must not weigh over 750kg
• should not weigh more than 50% of your car’s weight

Trailer with braking system

The car and loaded trailer must not weigh over the second weight shown on the car manufacturer’s plates.

When you’re driving

You must not drive faster than the speed limit for the type of road.

If the trailer starts to snake or swerve, ease off the accelerator and reduce your speed gently. It’s a sign that either:

• you’re going too fast
• the trailer is loaded incorrectly

Don’t brake harshly on a bend, as it makes the trailer unstable. Reduce your speed in plenty of time when approaching any hazard.

• Motorways

You must not drive in the right-hand lane / fast lane of a motorway with 3 or more lanes.

How to Couple / Uncouple a Trailer

Before starting the coupling / uncoupling process, it is important to physically check the trailer. The most important part of this check is to verify that the parking brake is applied. If you don’t, it could roll away whilst coupling / uncoupling, causing a potentially hazardous situation.

The rest of your trailer check should include verifying that all wheel nuts, tyres and lights are all complete, correct and undamaged.

Uncoupling a Trailer

1. Apply trailer handbrake.

2. Lower jockey wheel.

3. Use jockey wheel to wind up trailer and uncouple.

4. Before removing the brake away safety cable ensure that the handbrake is in the fully upright position whilst physically pushing trailer to ensure the handbrake works correctly.

5. Detach safety brake away cable.

6. Detach electrics.

Once the trailer has been uncoupled you can now move your tow vehicle if required.

Re-coupling the Trailer

1. Manoeuvre tow vehicle into position, it needs to be close enough for you to attach the brake away cable before removing the handbrake and moving the trailer but not necessarily right over the ball.

2. Before removing the trailer handbrake attach the safety brake away cable.

3. Move the trailer into position.

4. Lift handle and wind jockey wheel down until you get a good connection.

5. Use the jockey wheel to perform a jack test, which involves winding the jockey wheel back down again to raise the rear of the car, this ensures that you have a solid connection.

6. Wind up, raise and secure jockey wheel away.

7. Attach electrics.

8. Ask someone to assist with a lights check.

If you have accidentally run the T-Vac out of diesel or a fuel filter change is required, you need to follow theses instructions:

• Re-fill the diesel tank
• Turn the ingnition on  
• Place a container or oil nappy below the fuel pump
• Unscrew bolt ( 1) 
• Manually pump the diesel through ( 2)  See below notes. 
• Once a constant flow of diesel is acheived, re tighten the bolt (1). 
• Re-start the engine

The manual pump is engauged by a cam on the engine. It may require a turn of the engine to engage the cam before the pump will work.

Do not remove any pipe work from the fuel system to try to bleed out trapped air.   

If the problem still persists, contact us. 

• Remove the grease cover from the tracks 2xM8 bolt (PIC2)
• Loose the grease nipple from the tensioner (PIC3)
• Put pressure on the idler wheel…so that the grease will come out the tensioner…and the track will be come loose.
• Remove the tracks from the frame.
• Remove the inner guard . (PIC4)
• Remove the hydraulic hoses from the hydraulic motor. (PIC5)
• Mark or tape the top pipe to ensure the pipes are refitted correctly
• Remove the sprocket (PIC6)
• Remove the complete gearbox with the motor (PIC7)
• Fit the new motor with gearbox to the track frame 
• Remount the sprocket (PIC6)
• Place the track back on the frame(PIC8)
• Tighten the grese nipple back in (PIC3)
• Put some tension in the track with grease you need approx 5cm play between the track and the bottom roller at the underside of the track in the middle (see checking the tension once you have completed the job)
• Place the hydraulic hoses back on the hydraulic motor ensuring the pipe with the tape on is fitted in the top connection
• Fit the inner guard (PIC2)
• Checking the tension- stop the machine on solid ground level and drive 2 meters (minimum) in a forward direction . Measure the sag on the top part of the track on the longest section of unsupported track as shown below. (PIC9)
• The sag of the track must be between 5mm and 15mm.
• Ensure regular checks on this and if an operator notices any issue it is reported to be adjusted.

• Isolate the T-VAC
• Open the engine inspection door (T-VAC)
• Push the battery down from the top and pull it out
• Turn the remote upside down and push the battery to the right to release
• Switch the batteries 
• Start up the unit
• Ensure the remote isolator is not engaged and press and hold the power button in